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terry0
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VBMWMO #9478
Joined: 07/09/2018
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Looking for input from more experienced /2 owners. So as you read this assume first its the guy behind the wrench with a lack of experience an skill. Smile

Bike and specifics to /2 are new to me. Following procedures from Barrington book, parts and invaluable advice from Vech, but Im hitting a wall with a fouled plug.

Bike was in a dealers "collection"... I say horde, 34k miles documented original, unmolested for the most part.

Quick history of what Ive done in the last few weeks of owning the bike:

Originally had starting problems, bike had Bosh "resistor" plugs, resistor caps, failing plug wires. Replaced original coil with the modern sealed blue unit, new cables, caps and NGK from Vech. Get great spark, bike starts on first few kicks now after weeks of kicking edging into insanity. Lots of minor missing failed rubber bits have been replaced, new wire harnes, tubes/tires etc. its been a busy few weeks of ignoring the family.

Got the spruce buzz box from Vech, confirmed mag static is spot on, confirmed no differential timing issues.

Carbs were leaky when i got the bike, rebuilt with the gasket kit, cleaned both carbs. Floats were missing the top washer, replaced the float pin, added missing washer. Confirmed no fuel in brass floats, no cracks. Confirmed 22mm distance from lever top bottom flat to brass lever. Confirmed float needle shuts off fuel when closed by hand so I opted not to try and change it out for new. The brass float leaver itself looks like its been bent/adjusted in the past, but seems to still have a close shape to where it should be. I filled the float bowl with fuel and let it sit to see if it took on fuel and sank but appears to be ok and comes up and stays up.

Carbs still drip if fuel is left on and not running. Day one the fuel was just pissing out the bottom of the carb, i think the float was just stuck that day. Plus i mistakenly was using the tickler too much. Vech straightened me out eventually, but that day it seemed like there was a hole in the bottom of the bowl. Hasn't happened since.

Followed Vechs online write up for carb setup/adjusting/sync. Had idle on both sides independently correct so each side would idle with opposite plug pulled.

Cables seem to be adjusted properly so carbs come on together with throttle. I ride 5-8 miles 30-45mph and right side plug will fowl, power loss, and limp home. Find wet fouled plug, looked in the head with a cheap USB scope and found small puddle of fuel.

Seems like some kind of float issue, or Im not setting the air/mix screw correctly. (I expect the later)

I follow Vechs process for setting the idle screw and mix screw for idle and sync, but what step am I doing wrong or missing for air/mix when off of idle? Seems like there is more to it.

Left side plug ceramic is white-tan, which I would expect.

I only have a few plugs left and would like to get some input from those with more experience before fouling my last two.

Trying to get to where i can drive it somewhere and get a bike inspection done. (In TX its easier to do title/taxes/plates in one visit but you have to have a state inspection done first)

thanks in advance.
Terry

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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On my R69S, I have

On my R69S, I have year-of-manufacture plates...so no inspections. At first, I had regular plates, but was really not that interested in the YamHonKaw shop getting their hands on the bike. Now the BMW dealer doesn't ride the bike, just goes through the usual safety bits.

As for the carbs, it does appear that the float is not seating on the right side. You say the float comes up and stays up. The rod that goes through the float sits in a small well in the bottom of the bowl to keep things aligned. Be sure that well is not corroded which would in some situations grab the rod and not let it move up and down. The float doesn't move up and down on the rod...the whole affair moves up as the float comes to the top.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

terry0
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Thanks for that info on the

Thanks for that info on the plates... I just got my YOM plate yesterday as a matter of fact... thought i still needed TX state inspection though? I didn't know that i didnt, will be at the the county tax office first thing Monday.

Carbs match, and all but oddly the float rod on the carbs did not have the same level of notch for the bowl to snap on at.

One is 14mm from top, the other about 18mm... the 18mm is from the carb that is currently fouling. Both have been changed out to units from Benchmark since.

Wondering if there was something else done to the carb to work with this old pin. Might switch back to this one to see if issue goes away.

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terry0
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Thanks, didnt know that about

Thanks, didnt know that about TX YOM plates... just got mine yesterday so Ill be going to county office monday!

When i removed the original float rods i noticed the float bowl snap notch was 14mm on one and 18mm on the other. The 18mm is from the side that was pissing fuel on day one when i opened the line to start. Wondering now if there is something else mis-matched on that carb.

thanks for the help... going to go look at that carb again now.

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wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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float rod notch

Yes
They should be the same
I will measure mine today to see where my notches are cut and let you know later

Mine are 9/16 inches or about 14mm not 18mm

Looks like the top float rod (rusty one) is not correct and also as you stated would be the same side that is leaking

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

Carott
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Joined: 04/14/2015
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Float rods

There was a change in the float rods from the first generation lever tops to the current lever tops.
Check out this discussion http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/12274
Brett

terry0
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float rods match

All, thanks for the input.

Current float rods are new matching pair from Benchmark. I just thought it was odd that the originals didn't match and thought something else might be wrong with the setup.

I cleaned out the seat for the rod in the bottom of the carb bowl with a drill bit by hand, didn't get much gunk out. I was hoping that would be the issue but I dont think it is. When I manually move the float rod it seems free to slide up and down fine and not hang up.

I changed out the bad NGK Sunday and was able to get the idle close i think to where it needed to be, made a bunch of runs close to the house (coasting or easy push distance from home Smile Grabbed spare plugs and ended up doing 75 miles and finally got the bike up to speed. Was quite pleased with myself after all the sweat equity (my garage is 100+ in the shade most of the day).

After the bike temp got high i noticed I was no longer able to keep the bike at a steady idle without throttle. Maybe the bike wasn't hot enough when i set the idle originally? Now even on a cold start the idle screws set 24hrs before aren't working and i need throttle. Seems like Im doing something wrong.

I had to get the bike inspected today for TX plates (Kurt, are you doing vintage TX plate registration or classic?) . I was told I needed an inspection for YOM classic plate to be registered to the bike. I think TX vintage you dont, but you also cant ride it other than maintenance and to shows. I plan on riding a lot and dont want crap from Comal county's finest... or TXDPS.

Anyway had to take it to the Harley shop today (only bike game in town open Mondays). Anyway the knucklehead (not the bike, the HD employee) didnt follow my instructions and left the fuel open after he rode my bike around back and let it sit. Apparently to check brakes, tires, horn and mirror he had to have it in front of his computer. Anyway after he was done i barely made it out of the parking lot because fuel got into the cylinder and fouled the plug. Pulled out my last good one and got home.

At this point it might be better to throw in the towel and get plastic bowls from Benchmark and see if that helps. I was really wanting to avoid that cost and put that toward just getting carbs redone at bing. I cant keep replacing plugs just because i left the fuel on.

thanks
Terry

terry0
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VBMWMO #9478
Joined: 07/09/2018
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THanks Tommy, I had replaced

THanks Tommy, I had replaced both float rods when i added the missing washer, so they both match now. I was just curious why the originals were not matched and if the carb with the 18mm rod originally would have any other modifications because of that which i may still be dealing with.

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6652
License Plates

terry0 wrote:

I had to get the bike inspected today for TX plates (Kurt, are you doing vintage TX plate registration or classic?) . I was told I needed an inspection for YOM classic plate to be registered to the bike. I think TX vintage you dont, but you also cant ride it other than maintenance and to shows. I plan on riding a lot and dont want crap from Comal county's finest... or TXDPS.

For Texas, if you're in the Classic category, you have full riding "privileges" and you will need to get the bike inspected each year. Typically, the state will issue Classic license plates. For the Antique category, no inspection will be needed. I believe you can get Texas-issued license plates, or submit year-of-manufacture plates for use...I think they want to see the plate to make sure it's suitable and not rusted up. Every 5 years, I have to re-register and put a small separate tag on the fender near the license plate. Yes, there is probably a mileage limit and use for clubs. But no cop is going to stop you. (Actually I was stopped by a local cop for a violation but I was able to talk my way out of it. He didn't question my mileage status.) I can show my gas mileage logs to indicate that I'm not driving farther than the limit. If I want to ride to Vech's non-rally rally on a given year, I'll tell the cop I'm going to a club event. It's not a big deal really.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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