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Irish R252
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Made a good start.

Engine out, will take it for Vapour blasting.

Frame ready for blasting and powder coating (one I get the headset bearings out)

My tank was in a bad way and the steel lips for the rubbers had rotted off. Striped the tank back to metal to expose brass filler and at leats 4 types of modern filler. I used JB weld to put the steel lips on. Seems to have worked surprisingly well. Off to a paintshop soon for painting.

Forks broken down to be cleaned up and powder coated.

Hubs out of wheels striped to metal and off with a wheel re builder now. The purist will not be happy with my rim choice. Smile

So there you go. Long way to go but, need to start somewhere.

Cheers
Al.

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schrader7032
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Nice going! We'll be

Nice going! We'll be watching!

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Irish R252
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drive shaft

so just to follow up on another post. The advice received for anyone attempting to separate the drive shaft to replace the rubber bung over the cardan bell is to not bother.
"the drive flange has to be pressed off with a support the the flange and a 20 ton press
Here a pic of the Barrington Restoration and Service manual for the removal of the flange
It says if your only what to replace the rubber boot at the end of the driveshaft it may be wise to cut it and glue it back together
as you may destroy the driveshaft without the proper setup"
http://vintagebmw.org/v7/node/15994

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Irish R252
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plunger shocks

I'm having difficulty disassembling one of the shocks. The one on the drive side came apart easily enough, the spring just unscrewed to allow me get the cover out, but the opposite side shock will not come apart.
I soaked it in petrol then soaked it it kroil. Compressed the spring, stretched the spring, held the spring in a vice and rotated it. I'm at a bit of a loss. is there something I'm missing here because it won't budge? is one side different to the other?
Want to get both spring covers powdercoated also.

Dropped off the frame and some bits and pieces for sodablasting and powdercoating today.
I've added a couple of final shots of the bits and bobs at the blasters, looking forward to see how they turn out. The photos don't really show how awful paint finish on the frame was. combination of different paints brushed on and sprayed on and flaking off but on the positive side it was largely solid and rust free.

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Irish R252
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15euros

So had a look online and the cover is available for 15euros. Thats what it would cost to get it blasted and powdercoated and seeing as how it was dented anyway I decided to sacrifice it to the curiousisty gods. I removed the cover with tin snips to see if I could identify what was causing the spring to not want to come free.
It looks like nothing is actually obstructing it and it is just the compression of the spring itself holding it in place. Tips welcome.
Al.

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wa1nca
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Plunger Spring Removal

Your making fast progress
Another quote from my R51 Barrington service manual in pic
Looks like you need to drive the lower part of the spring off with a punch
Should come off easy as it only been on for less than 70 years

Good point Kurt to keep this as a ongoing thread

Tommy Byrnes

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Irish R252
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result

wa1nca wrote:

Your making fast progress
Another quote from my R51 Barrington service manual in pic
Looks like you need to drive the lower part of the spring off with a punch
Should come off easy as it only been on for less than 70 years

Good point Kurt to keep this as a ongoing thread

Tommy Byrnes

Tommy thanks so much, I tried following the instructions you attached in the manual and the spring was off in two minutes.
A result no doubt.
Going to put a Barringtons manual on my Christmas list
Al.

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wa1nca
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Barrington service and restoration manual

Good news
Barrington service manual
I use It often
I first bought one for r50_r69
then bought my second one for r51/3 _r68

They do not have one for r25

The r51_r68 manual will cover the r25 rear end and the front suspension
the r26_r27 manual will cover the the r26 engine and transmission

Worth ever penny spent
I am not a salesman!

Tommy

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Irish R252
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sparkle

Made a start putting a bit of sparkle into the hardware

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schrader7032
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That hurts me eyes!!

That hurts me eyes!! Big Grin

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Irish R252
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back to metal

So the frame is blasted back to bare metal pending powder coating,
I've also got the engine glass bead blasted. Honestly didn't come out as well as I hoped. I think I will lightly polish the gearbox so it doesn't have that blasted look. and will definitely be painting the cylinder black. The generator cover is going black powder coat also
I forgot to take off the kickstart before i dropped it off so thats blasted now too.
Anyway that's all for now

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wa1nca
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Cleaning parts

Irish R252 wrote:

Made a start putting a bit of sparkle into the hardware

Very nice
What type of cleaner/polish did you use and done by hand or a buffer wheel ?

Tommy

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wa1nca
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Engine and frame #'s

Irish R252 wrote:

So the frame is blasted back to bare metal pending powder coating,
I've also got the engine glass bead blasted. Honestly didn't come out as well as I hoped. I think I will lightly polish the gearbox so it doesn't have that blasted look. and will definitely be painting the cylinder black. The generator cover is going black powder coat also
I forgot to take off the kickstart before i dropped it off so thats blasted now too.
Anyway that's all for now

The engine # 234B82 must be a replacement block
What is the frame # ?
If it has 19" wheels it would be r25 or r25/2
If it has 18" wheels it would be r25/3

I like the blasted look on the gearbox
IMO I dont like the polished look

Tommy

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schrader7032
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I see the engine number as

I see the engine number as 234682. That appears to be an R25 number.

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Irish R252
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Cheers i just used a hard

Cheers i just used a hard polishing wheel with brown compound then a soft wheel with blue compound and a sheepshin mob with autosol.
I attached them onto my hand drill. Came out pretty well.

Also got the ground away centre stand welded back up this week. It had ground almost in half from dragging on the ground.

Ah the engine #. Yes you guys are on the ball. you are right, it's not an R25/2 engine. I didn't cope this out until after it arrived in Ireland.
It doesn't have the manual shifter so I thought it was an R25/3. The engine number as I read it is 284682 which would tie in with this.. It had the 19" wheels and a R25/2 frame.
This table below was very handy in figuring out what parts came from what.
http://monos.r25-bike.de/#EN

I also had the BMW archive guys tell me the frame # was an R25/2 that rolled off the assembly line in March 1952.

Yes between two minds on the finish for the engine. I would like the factory finish but not sure how to get to there from the blasted finish I have now

schrader7032
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What was the frame number?

What was the frame number?

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Captonzap
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A possible solution

Irish R252 wrote:

Yes between two minds on the finish for the engine. I would like the factory finish but not sure how to get to there from the blasted finish I have now

I don't know what they call it over there, but in the States, vapor blasting is a process where water and glass bead are used as a blast medium. The glass beads act as a peening material, and when used on old aluminum, imparts a sort of sheen, similar to the original finish.
Sand blasting creates many small divots in the metal, where the sharp edges of the sand gouge out metal.
If you can find someone that does that sort of blasting, you might try it on the tranny and see if it improves the look.
The down side is that since water is employed, you need the cases empty of all bearings, gears, shafts, etc.
And anal folks will boil the finished case in detergent water to clean all the grit out of the surfaces. (It is thought that some of the glass beads fracture and imbed in the metal during the blasting).

https://www.vaporblastingequipment.com/wet-blasting/what-wetblasting-gui...

Daves79x
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Thoughts

If your bead blasting service did not carefully plug every orifice you need to be very aware that some media got inside the cases. Especially past the shifter seal that obviously did not get plugged. Blasting an intact engine/trans is a very risky operation.

That said, bead blasted aluminum IS as close to the factory finish as you'll get. Vapor blasting usually gives too polished a look. However, on the two I've done, I've had everything vapor blasted because I like that look and like the additional protection that gives the aluminum. I'll take the point or so hit for non-originality from the judges.

Dave

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Jim D 5112
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Blasted Engine

The motor should have never been blasted together!!!!!!!!! Plastic blast media dose a pretty good job without destroying the original finish. But even then it should be apart. Sometimes you just need to put the motor parts on a big baking tray and start scrubbing it using small brushes with cleaners or possibly some solvents in a well ventilated area. if the motor was blasted together it should be taken apart and cleaned. My friend blasted one together and when you turned it over by hand on the bench you could hear the grinding of the glass beads.
Just my opinion.

Irish R252
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Thanks for the feedback

Thanks for the feedback gents, the guy who did it is a local restorer as opposed to a general blaster that doesn't care, blasts whatever and sends it back.
He did very carefully plug every orifice with Mastic. I'm happy enough with the care he took, he's been doing it for 50 years, gets on average one bike a week and I've never heard anyone have any issues with his workmanship.
It was glass bead blasted. Can you explain why you say especially the shifter seal Dave?

Anyway I guess I'll have to take my chances now. Engine sounds fine to me when its turned over by hand. I'll be dissembling it to replace the gaskets, paint the cylinder and whatnot anyway so I'll keep an eye out.

Picked up the frame and bits and bobs today. powdercoated and looking good imo.

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Daves79x
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Seal

The lip of the shifter (or any) seal is not a good seal against blast media getting past. It usually does. We're not trying to throw cold water on your project, but just being pragmatic.

Dave

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Irish R252
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all good

Daves79x wrote:

The lip of the shifter (or any) seal is not a good seal against blast media getting past. It usually does. We're not trying to throw cold water on your project, but just being pragmatic.

Dave

I appreciate peoples opinions, we're all good Dave, I'm here for the collective knowledge. That said, I trust my guy, everything was meticulously sealed off and from what I can see there is no evidence of blast media having hit the shifter seal. But forewarned is forearmed so I'll thoroughly inspect the engine when I'm replacing the gaskets, if I find glass bead ingress then I'll deal with it.
It'd be shame for the project to run too smoothly Wink

Daves79x
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Carry On!

By all means carry on and I'm sure you'll ably deal with whatever you encounter.

dave

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