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schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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A friend is preparing his R60/2 engine to send in to Vech to have the bottom end redone. He had installed the MZB 12v ignition system and that needs to be removed before he ships the bare engine. I took my standard rotor puller to him, but it's too long. It bottoms out before any of the threads can engage. Makes sense since the bolt that holds the rotor onto the crankshaft is so much shorter.

What does it take to pull this rotor off?

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

ahistand
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Tomball, TX
Joined: 10/16/2006
Posts: 22
Puller

Could possibly make your own puller bolt with a shorter “no thread” portion....maybe chuck a Class 10.9 bolt up in a drill or something and use a 4 inch disc grinder to grind off some threads? Maybe a little crude but it could work.

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
Posts: 627
MZB oil seal cam

Is this what you need to remove
it is just a oil seal plug for the back of the old mag that was removed and I dont think you have to remove it to remove the timing case cover and also to remove the camshaft

A puller bolt wont work as their are no threads inside of it like the magneto
After removing the bolt a little heat and it should come off

Tommy

  • mnocken2.jpg
  • mnocken7081.jpg
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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6954
I realize that something

I realize that something could be made...certainly a high strength bolt. I was a little surprised when the standard puller didn't work...and that's because the original rotor in the generator is so much longer than what is there to replace it. Tommy, the thing that's being pulled is the grey round thing in the bottom of one of your pictures. The original magneto is no longer there.

I'm guessing that this single rotor he has installed is the 12v generator/alternator and ignition system combined. There is a pickup on the outside of the rotor that senses when a small spot spins around each revolution which ends up being the timing side of things.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
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BMZ mag rotor removal tool

Oh ok then you need this in pic below from my installation instructions
To disengage your new rotor again, you will need a puller M27x1,25 (part-no.: 99 99 799 00 -Not provided!-).
If you have this then maybe you just need a bolt
I can measure mine if needed
Tommy

  • 9999799.jpg
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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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Tommy - Thanks. My friend is

Tommy -

Thanks. My friend is supposed to check his instructions for the rotor. What does the big black nut screw into? We removed the existing bolt holding the rotor in place...strangely, there must have been 6-7 flat washers under the head of the bolt...probably just to take up extra space. I don't remember looking carefully enough to see what was exposed by the washers, but I don't remember seeing a larger threaded area.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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the big black nut

Yes that screws into the rotor and then when the screw is tightened and the rotor gets pulled off
It is noted in the instructions that dont use any other means as the magnets inside may become dislodged
I tried this on a snowmobile rotor with a puller and stopped as I was using too much force with the gear puller so I decided to give it a little shock with a hammer I did get it removed but had to replace the rotor as some of the magnets inside did fall off

Here are the installation instructions posted for the MZB setup

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/systems/7081/7081inst.php

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

jambo
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VBMWMO #9208
Long Island
Joined: 11/23/2016
Posts: 144
A few pics of mine

I took a few pictures of mine. It looks like the middle bolt presses on the end of the crank but I think I loosened the middle bolt and pressed on that instead because I was not happy pressing on the crank. I honestly forget and it was a non-issue. I had mine off several times.

See pics below.

  • 8959e68f-c9be-4afd-989d-bb68e8e0a1c6.jpeg
  • 335fab01-6ea5-42f4-aafc-2378168fc762.jpeg
  • 2e16b4d8-b543-4cbe-a537-2548f0decc66.jpeg
  • 448d42e6-e206-4aac-8d75-d0cbd7ef51c7.jpeg
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1967 R69S, 1966 R50/2, 1965 R27, 1963 R27, 1952 R51/3 and 2018 R1200GS

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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OK, that all makes sense.

OK, that all makes sense. I'll pass the info on. Thanks!

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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MBZ rotor puller tool

It is funny that this is a option from now the Vape kit as is it needed to remove the rotor
as Jambo states to you need to remove the rotor to get the proper timing
Joe Ropose included this puller setup when I bought this when he was the importer for MZB
You most likely need to reposition the rotor a few times after reinstalling it to get the timing correct as it is not keyed to the crankshaft and the timing pickup is not adjustable
But once set no more adjustments for you timing
You can get this from Vape for about 12.00 US dollars not sure shipping costs
If you need one sooner I could loan mine to you but you must source one for further use
Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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He found the puller from the

He found the puller from the original kit. The cover is off, so that's a good sign.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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6-7 flat washers under the head of the bolt

The mounting bolt was too long to secure the rotor
Joel as he became aware of this shorted the bolt and added the puller for the rotor when he shipped the original MZB kits

At this time my initial instuctions stated the switches for the advance module should be 2 up and 2 down for the proper advance curve
The new updated one I just posted from on the web states that all switches should be off to give a 8 degree BTC at low rpm's and not to retard more that 38 degree over 3000 rpm's

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6954
I ended up using the regular

I ended up using the regular puller to pull off the other cover on the nose of the camshaft. I realized that it engaged the threads of the cover and bottomed out inside the camshaft. A couple of turns on the puller bolt, and the cover popped off.

Everything went well taking the engine out of the frame...it's currently in a box to be shipped off to Vech. We had a couple of issues with studs that pulled out of the engine case. One of them was a stud that holds the bracket down for the top engine mount...the acorn nut was just too corroded in place...the stud came out instead. Also, one of the studs that hold the transmission in place. The nut wouldn't release, so in turning the nut, the stud walked out. Vech says no problem...he'll take of things on his end.

I had wanted to remove the clutch pack, but wasn't having much luck freeing up any of the slotted screws holding the pressure plate down. I had ideas, but after talking to Vech, he said just leave it in place and he'll look at the clutch on his end. I don't think there are many miles on the clutch so maybe he'll be OK.

The pistons had 72.95 stamped in the top, so that's pretty clear the engine is 2nd over. The pistons have a date code in the mold...it was 12 89 so the work that was done before this owner was sometime after that. Again, I don't think there are many miles on this rebuild...the current owner has had the bike sitting idle for the last 10 years. So there can't be many miles on it.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
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slotted screws holding the pressure plate down

They are a PITA to remove even with a impact driver and also cant torque them when reinstalling
I found these and ordered them from Salis
Clutch screw M8 x 1 x 20 countersunk socket head
About $1.40 each but well worth the price
Easy off and can torque when installing
Pic below
Tommy

The clutch screws I ordered from Salis didnt fit the head is to fat
I ordered 6 from
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BMW-ALLEN-HEAD-CLUTCH-SCREW-R50-R60-R69S-NE...
2nd pic

Vech also lists same part # 2121 0070 155 A
Tommy

  • 21211231463_allen_head_screw_for_clutch.jpg
  • _1.jpg
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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

wa1nca
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VBMWMO #8374
Ashfield Ma.
Joined: 09/27/2012
Posts: 627
Clutch srews

Received allen head clutch screws from Klassic Cycle
They worked great

I emailed Salis and they gave me credit for their allen head clutch screws
They are used on /5/6 but will work if you mill the cross supports inside the transmission a little
They updated their web site to indicate that this needs to be done if used on r50-r69

https://bmwclassicmotorcycles.com/index.php/clutch-screw-1981.html

Tommy

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Tommy Byrnes
54 R51/3 55 R50 64 R27 68 R69US 68 Sears Allstate 250 (Puch)

schrader7032
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VBMWMO #7032
San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 6954
The owner's engine with

The owner's engine with clutch attached is at Vech's. I wonder what Vech will do.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

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