I have just got this bike from the 2nd owner and he said it has 27.800 mile on it but I'm not sure if that is correct sense the odometer is not working.
Is this caused by the valve guide going bad? Every now and then when the bike has been parked for a couple days I start it and it burns oil out the left exhaust till it is burnt off and then stops.
It also is weeping oil from around the head gasket on the same side so should i retork the head bolts or replace the gaskets.
If I am needing to replace the guides where can I get it done for a good price? Thanks
Are you parking the bike on the side stand? This is typical in that situation. When parked on the side stand, and if the ring gaps are aligned, then oil can migrate into the combustion chamber and it will smoke on start up. Try using the center stand and/or tilting the bike to the right for 10-15 seconds before parking the bike.
You might want to consider a compression test and a leak down test to identify if you have any top end problems. I would do these before considering a top end job.
If it were me and I was going in for valve guides, I would just do the whole top end since the effort was made to get there. Since the mileage may be unknown, then it might be good to get it done.
Use the center stand, do some tests, and then let us know what you find out.
You would think that Atlantic, PA, might be near the Atlantic Ocean!! I was going to say that Tom Cutter does excellent Airhead work and is in York, PA, but that's on the other side of the state. He can certainly help you out...it's quite easy to mail heads to him.
I would say to check with Tom Cutter about parts...not sure if he can do that sort of thing or if he strictly does repairs. Ted Porter in northern California at http://www.beemershop.com does excellent work...Ted does all the machining in-house. He has great supplies on hand. Another good resource in Virginia is Anton Largiader at http://largiader.com/. All these guys really know these machines.
Bob's BMW also does heads and would also carry the parts. Chicago BMW has really good prices but the problem (that I've heard) is they are slow on delivery. But if you can afford to wait and/or try and bug them some, maybe you can get what you need.
I like to deal with someone who really knows the machines so that when I say I need such and such, I don't really have to know the part number, etc.
Kurt in S.A.
I mentioned earlier the possible scenario how the oil gets in the combustion chamber when parked on the side stand. Take a look at the angle of the cylinder when it's on the side stand. Any residual oil that's on the cylinder walls will run downhill. There should be at least three rings around the piston...there's a gap at some position for each ring. Over time, the rings wear and the gap widens. If by chance (and it does happen), the rings should migrate around so that they are all essentially at the bottom, that oil running downhill can get through the gap and into the combustion chamber. Thus the smoking on startup.
You have the right idea about the rocker arm movement. When checking your valve clearnaces at TDC on one side, you should grab the rocker arm with your fingers and move it vertically. You'll see where the rockers come into contact with the square pillow blocks at either end. At this joint, you should only see slight oil film movement if the rockers are adjusted corrected. If you see more than that and can stick in a feeler gage between the arm and block, then that will contribute to noise. The noise may not be there all the time, just when the RPMs hit a specific resonance and the sound will be more noticeable.
Duane has some info on how to adjust this at:
Also, Snowbum has info as well:
Another thing that can be considered to quiet the noises are by inserting small pads in between the cylinder fins...this reduces the vibration that the fins may get into. Snowbum also talks about it here:
HTH...Kurt in S.A.
Here's a website that has some good info on relays. It also lists substitutions.
Snowbum's website may also list some substitutions.
The BMW starter relay is not all that expensive...I like to have the correct part when it comes to these kinds of things. There are several places that will ship the part to you if you're not near a dealer.
Another thing you can do is to remove the relay from its plug and clean all the contacts. Sometimes just unplugging and replugging a few times will scrape off some of the corrosion.
BTW...what are the symptoms that leads you to suspect the starter relay?
Kurt in S.A.
Sounds like the bike is acting like its namesake -- DoubleClutch!!
You might want to recheck the clutch lever adjustments and also be a bit more deliberate on upshifting and downshifting. Try preloading the lever slightly with your foot just before you pull the hand lever.
Kurt in S.A.
I am going to change the gearbox lube this week. What do you recommend using?
A good quality petroleum based GL-5 80w90. I'm not a synthetic guy.
Kurt in S.A.
Sounds bueno... :!:
Kurt in S.A.
According to RealOEM, the part 63121356402 (Supporting ring) was found on the following vehicles. I just cut-n-pasted from their website. I don't really know what the "without" means. RealOEM also said the ring was around $200. Ouch!! You might consider some salvage places such as Airhead Salvage south of Austin Texas at http://airheadsalvage.com.
K51: Details on K51
K51 R60/6 WITHOUT
K51 R75/6 WITHOUT
K51 R90/6 WITHOUT
K51 R90S WITHOUT
K52: Details on K52
K52 R100RS WITHOUT
K52 R100RT WITHOUT
K56: Details on K56
K56 R60/7 WITHOUT
K56 R75/7 WITHOUT
K56 R80 WITHOUT
K56 R80RT WITHOUT
K57: Details on K57
K57 R100/7T WITHOUT
K57 R100/T WITHOUT
K57 R100CS WITHOUT
K57 R100RS WITHOUT
K57 R100RT WITHOUT
K57 R100S WITHOUT
K58: Details on K58
K58 R65 WITHOUT
K58 R80 WITHOUT
K58 R80RT WITHOUT
K59: Details on K59
K59 K75 /2 WITHOUT
K67: Details on K67
K67 R100MYS WITHOUT
K67 R100R WITHOUT
K70: Details on K70
K70 R1100R WITHOUT
K70 R850R WITHOUT
K74: Details on K74
K74 R1200C WITHOUT
K74 R1200C/M WITHOUT
K82: Details on K82
K82 R1150R WITHOUT
K84: Details on K84
K84 R1200I WITHOUT
K84 R1200I/M WITHOUT
Ouch!! You might consider some salvage places such as Airhead Salvage south of Austin Texas at http://airheadsalvage.com.
I see that Airhead Salvage has been taken over by Martindale Cycleworks. If you ever find yourself in Martindale, TX, watch your speed VERY carefully, because the the LEOs are too. DAMHIK.
Now you know why we like these bikes so much, in spite of some of the oddities that BMW has engineered in from time to time.
Speedometer repair doesn't come cheaply. There are articles out there on how to DIY the odo; usually a small clip comes unglued and the numbers rotate on their own. Here's a great pictorial on how to repair this: http://www.airheads.org/content/view/160/98/
Otherwise, there are three well known speedo shops: Palo Alto Speedometer, North Hollywood Speedometer and Overseas Speedometer. You can find information on all of them on the Resource Links page (or just put each name into the search box in the upper left of any page). Recently Palo Alto has gotten a poor reputation. I have had nothing but great experiences with North Hollywood.