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808Airhead
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I have acquired a R69S and will be doing a complete restoration,and hope to photograph my progress as I go.Since I will not be making my own web page to document this,I will popst about it on this thread.The bike is complete,and has 33k on the clock.Has been re=painted once and tape-pin striped.The seller says the mileage is original.I will be splitting the motor,doing all new bearings/pistons/rings/slingers,etc.and doing all the work myself.
I will talk to Vech about the crankshaft,but does anyone here recommend a /2 crankshaft expert??Thanks,will post pictures soon. Cool

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
Joined: 10/27/2006
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R69S restoration

Cycleworks used to do crankshafts back when Ed Korn owned the business. He was bought out and Dan now runs it. You might check with Dan to see if he still does that or if he has other sources. Dan's a very knowledgeable guy...he posts on the Yahoo /2 Forum with some good information.

http://www.cycleworks.net/

The services page mentions crankshaft rebuilding:

http://www.cycleworks.net/services.htm

Kurt in S.A.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Thanks for the link,I have bought a bunch of cycleworks tools and am aware he does them.
I just want to get a good rebuild,since I read on this forum about a crankshaft on a R69S that was rebuilt by a experienced,reputable company,but it had snapped at a low mileage.In the same thread,there was reported some other failures with this same company.There was no name given,but I just want to avoid a catastrophe....
Has anybody here had their crank rebuilt? I know Vech uses a specialist crank rebuilder guy for his.I am going to contact Barrington as well and see what they say.
I only want to rebuild this engine once,and have it work correctly the first time.
I was debating between getting a low mileage bike (cheaper) or restoring this one.
Since this bike ios already here in Hawaii,I decided to go all out and go for a resto.
This will take more time & money in the long run,but will be a learning experience,and I still have my 60/2 to ride while restoring the 69S.So there will be no rush.Wish me luck!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Here are pictures of my next obsession.....Really happy the motor is free,the carb slides look very good,and relatively low mileage.This is a 1966 R69S,and the speedo back reads "8-65" so I am assuming the speedo is original.It reads 33k miles and when I open up this motor,I hope that is actual mileage!
Hopefully the barrels are on the original bore size (crosses fingers)the heads look good,no broken fins on them or the barrells.....I cannot wait to ride her when I am done Cool (years from now) Thinking

Carb slide pegs show minimal wear



I removed the headlight to take out the speedo

Here you can see the sticker on the BRAND NEW exhaust installed in 1983,and left to sit and rust!! These mufflers have never even had exhaust run through them! Love Struck

Here is the speedo,date on the bottom corresponds to the year,so hoping this is the mileage!

The paint has been sprayed over and plastic pinstriping done...sometime in the 70's-80's....

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Well..........got the left side cylinder/head off,and the head is STUCK to the barrel!! Any tips on seperating these?I have tried rubber ma;l;et,but no go.........I may have to use a hydraulic press!Some water got in the cylinder while sitting,the cylinder looks great,however the head will not come off!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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R69S restoration

I had the same problems separate the head from the cylinder on my R69S. First I tried Kroil or PB Blaster along with heat while still bolted to the bike. I tried the "rope in the chamber" trick and tried using the kick starter to push the rope and the head off. Later, I pulled the stuck combo off the block and built a press affair that pushed a rounded 1x1 inch piece of wood into the combustion chamber. I used deadblow hammers, etc. Nada...zip.

I was having the slingers cleaned by a mechanic, so I took the stuck pair to him. He had the thing apart in about 2 minutes, if that. It happened so fast, I'm not sure I know exactly what he did.

Here's what I believe he did. He took the four head bolts and screwed them back into their holes. I'm pretty sure it was the head bolts...but using hex head bolts of the same pitch might even be better. He engaged quite a few threads. Then, he use a hammer (regular, I believe) and hit the end of the bolts. The shock of the force was enough to separate the head from the cylinder.

Kurt in S.A.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Schraeder,you are a good man for taking your time to post that suggestion!! I cannot believe the obviuous escaping me!I never thought about that.It worked great,a couple whacks with a brass mallet and "pop" came off the head.Thank you sir!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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R69S restoration

Great! I'm glad that worked. If and when I acquire my next project, a 1952 R25/2, I'll have to remember what worked and go straight to that method.

Kurt in S.A.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

OK,I cleaned the piston off,and there are no "+" marks on the crown,just "71 92" on top of a different # which is "10 72"...........this is making me think this is standard bore size piston (?)
Anyone have any input on this? If this is a standard size piston,that is pretty good news,meaning I can still use the barrels!
Do these #'s indicate standard bore? Thanks!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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R69S restoration

Yes, "71 92" is the bore size in mm and that represents the standard size. Here's a picture of my piston crown when I got into my R69S:

Notice it also says the forging date "1/68" and the triangular shape is the stamp from the Nural company. I never could figure out what the "H" stood for. There were also numbers inside the piston skirt which were mold numbers and dates for the mold.

Not sure what the "10 72" is...it looks like a date but that doesn't make sense as your bike was built way before that...unless these are placement pistons for some reason.

I was also looking for some kind of mark to tell me which is forward in order to get the piston back on properly. I believe the /5-on bikes have the word "vorn" and an arrow showing the forward direction. It turns out there's no offset in the wrist pins on the R69S so the pistons can go back in either way. I ended up putting them back in so the lettering was readable.

Be sure and check the dimensions of the bore and also look at the ring gaps. I put each ring back into the bore and used the piston to square it up. Then I measured the gap on the rings with a feeler gage. My gap was at or over the tolerances but the bore measurements were pretty good and slightly over stock. So I just put standard rings back in. My bike has a little less than 30K on it when I went through it.

Kurt in S.A.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Thanks AGAIN schraeder.......is it only you and I on this forum??? Laughing
I want to know,is your bike a "1969",would that correspond to the piston date?
Maybe someone replaced the pistons & possibly barrels??
Either way,I am pretty stoked the barrels are only on the standard bore (still have to verify with a machinist).This,along with the good condition of the carbs is making me think that someone may have either replaced all this stuff,or the bike is really 33k miles with just a paint job on her.The crank has no play at the big end,but will verify with a dial gauge when possible.
Some good news,instaead of spending $300.00 -$400.00 on new carb inlet tubes,I am getting mine re-chromed for about 100 bux...... Cool

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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R69S restoration

Yup, just you and me in this lonely wilderness!! Not really, but the only ones up at this time...

According to BMW, my bike was built in Apr/May 1968 but was delivered to a German dealer in Dec 1968, so it is a 1969 model. Thus the date on the piston crown makes sense. Another thing that I've been meaning to check is the existence of a date on the back of the speedometer, another clue as to the manufacture date of the bike. I have a Wixom fairing and am not ready to get in behind that to look at the back of the speedo.

Kurt in S.A.

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'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

OK,took off the right side head & barrell,and everything was going good and then I looked at the piston and you guessed it,a spun small end bushing!!! Sad Thinking Sad Thinking I mic'd the small end of the rod and it does not appear to be bellmouthed,so a new bushing should still press in.
The big ends appear to have no play,but only removaln of the crank and a dial gauge will tell the absolute truth.
So far I am into it for new pistons,rotating valves,re-bore,and possible crank re-build........ :roll:

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

thaemlitz3321
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Willard, MO
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R69S restoration

I tore my engine down and found the oil pump gear shattered. Engine was as bad or worse than yours. I tore my engine down to the timing gears and had the jugs/heads off. Dan at Cycle Works split the cases and really gave it a thorough go over. Pistons and rings were expensive, but he charged minimal prices for bearings, boring, resurfaced the valve tappets and checking all tolerances, refurbished crank arms, etc. Really nice guy, seems know his stuff, great communication by email and phone.

schrader7032
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San Antonio, TX
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R69S restoration

"thaemlitz3321" wrote:

split the cases

I'm not familiar with that term for the R69S. Is this more of a general term, more suited to the older, pre /2 machines?

Kurt in S.A.

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Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2

Bruce Frey
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Texas Hill Country, USA
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R69S restoration

The last of the twins to have a spit case was the R12/R17 (not sure about the WWII R75 however). The R5-R71 had 1 piece tunnel cases, which followed onto the postwar machines.

I assume that "splitting the cases" a generic term for engine disassembly, especially if you have experience with leaky British iron.

Bruce

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

I agree,he more than likely was talking about having the crank removed and associated bottom end work.
Have ordered some stuff for this project from S.Meyer,small stuff like repro speedo,wiring harness,headlight rim,and some other small things.
Getting the parts stash started Cool

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

So far my first rebuilding effort is focused on the final drive.The final drive was leaking which was apparent from the heavy staining,but luckily with 30K miles there was little/no wear on the ring & pinion.There was one unfortunate circumstance where the shock lower bolt was overtightened in the past and the thread lug which is a press fit in the final drive was "spinning"which made removal impossible.
I proceeded to cut the bolt head off and took it to a machinest that "knurled" with a chisel the lug outer diameter which,with the help of some loc-titemade it once again a press fit.He ensured me it was never going to rotate again and said it may be difficult to ever remove it in the future! Laughing
That was a relief since this is not something that ios common and there is no "oversize" lug available.
Work commenced and proceeded to remove the very hardened and leaking oil seals,as well as the large ring bearing.
The pinion bearings and ring needle bearing are still good,however the large bearing had a rumble in it so that,as well as all the seals/gasket are being changed.
The ring has PERFECT wear marks and was advised that it should be no problem to re-use the shims since I am still using the original r&p and housing.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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R69S restoration

Ok,I have realised that even though the bike has relatively low mileage,a hack mechanic worked on it!
The pistons are,incredibley perfect with .003 skirt to wall clearance,so I can actually re-use these.The crank however has a little "work" done on the front generator taper,but this IMO is not a big issue,since the generator armature was still tightly on there.
The flywheel had .003 runout,which is good,and the taper was tight since it "popped" off of the crank,however it was NOT torqued properly,and I was able to loosen the bolt with a simple 1/2 inch ratchet instead of a breaker bar........then to my JOY :roll: ,I saw a sheared flywheel key,and slighty rough taper on the flywheel,only by the key.I will attempt to clean this up,replace the key,and hopefully be able to get the good runout measurement.
This crank is looking pretty messed up,so far I have 2 rough tapers,and a small end bushing that "fell out"......maybe a $2500.00 Mobile tradition new crank is in my future Thinking:

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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Here are some progress shots

Here are some progress shots of th eengine rebuild on my R69s restoration project,I have been working on it here & there and am really enjoying getting things done on this project.Currently,I am focusing on the mechanical aspects of the restoration and have so far finished rebuilding the final drive,and have now moved on to the engine.The engine has been stripped and clean,also have soda blasted the cases and evaluated what was good & what needed replacement.The crank that came with the engine had a spun small; end bushing,but otherwaise was true and the big rollers had .0002-.0003 play,so was good,however I scored a fully rebuiklt by cycleworks crank for only $500.00 and decided to use this instead.New front & rear main bearings were purchased,as well as slingers,and screws,seals,locking tabs for flywheel & oil pump gears,etc......
One part that was rather costly was the rear main bearing carrier,the original was damaged by a previous ham-fisted rebuilder & luckily they are reproducing this with a CNC version and it is beautiful,and costs $170.00!!That coupled with the $180.00 Mark-Swiss reproduced brass cage rear barrel bearing made for a expensive little motor!!
1.Engine in the oven,heated to 280 degrees & removed and placed on the bench.

2.Once the heated case was on the bench,I pulled the crankshaft out of the freezer and it literally slipped right ion the rear holder and was very relieved there was no pounding/cursing/hammering involved!
You can see the new bearing carrier & barrel bearing.

3.After installing the new front bearing in the bearing carrier,this was installed carefully by following the procedures in the factory manual.Basically pressing the bearing on until the carrier almost touches the case,and then drawing the carrier to the case with the nuts & bolkts that attach it,then drawing thje crank forward in the case.
It was very relieving when everything was going as planned and the crank rolled smoothly except in one small area of rotation.I saw the sling was lightly rubbing ion the fron carrier and instead of removeing the bearing carrier,I lightly tapped the edge of the slinger and this instantly gave enough clearance for a very smoothly turning crank.This was a minor issue,and it was due to the fact that the reproduction slingers are not exact and in factr have to be "worked" a little to fit in the big end pin and Vech has accounted for this by stating he has to "make them fit" as best you can.This seems to be the mantra for reproduction parts......

4. A picture of the new Benchmarkwerks double lipped Viton seal,and for a 40 dollar seal,I hope it works as good as it looks/much as it costs.

5.Here was a VERY time-consuming and nail biting procedure!Setting the runout on the flywheel.This took 4 different attempts and really learned a lot about this procedure.One of the best things was I had purchased the INVALUABLE Barrington manual and this gave wonderful insight into this procedure........it gave a technique of "pulling" one edge of the flywheel away from the block while tightening to help offset large runout values and even it up around the circumference.
I followed their tip of applying 25ft.lbs of tq. and measuring each time.......this was a wild rollercoaster ride of highs & lows....crank it down 25ft. lbs.....in spec,another 25 ft, lbs....up to .008 off! (spec is .004 or less)the another 25 ft. lbs,.006 off!.......loosen bolt,try again!I used a marker and made marks of the high & low spots spots and would keep trying with different combinations of tightening/pulling/measuring and 4th time was the charm......I got it to 176 ft.lb with a .............drum roll please............002" runout!!!! I was so stoked after being methodical,I felt it really paid off.This should make for a smooth motor & good clutch action.

Look closely,you can see the .002"!!! Yay!

6.Here is the flywheel installed.I thought it would be neat to right a little message in permanent marker and it reads my name,the date,and "it took 2 hours to get the .002" runout!"Maybe one day when I pass someone will see that little message and get a kick out of it!

7.Just for kicks I decided to install the beautiful big sump and it is wonderfully mader,great fit & finish.

I used the dark cork gasket and coated it with Permatex aviation sealer (brown tarry liquid)and looking forward to getting this engine finished and moving in to the body/chassis.........

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Darryl.Richman
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Coming along!

We're all rooting for you! The excitement is building and we can hardly wait to hear your report about your first ride!

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http://darryl.crafty-fox.com

Hawaii
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With an engine so clean, I

With an engine so clean, I would put in my living room. I would be afraid to put it in the garage.

808Airhead
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Have some more pictures

Have some more pictures coming soon........frame/forks,etc.all powdercoated,waiting for rims/air tubes/small bits to get back from the chrome shop,and am presently rebuilding the heads and putting new seals in the transmission after inspecting the internals.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Peter
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Looking Forward

You won't be disappointed in that twin lipped vitton seal, they work a treat. I see no empty beer cans? Was the transmission all ok just seals needed. Keep us all posted

Cheers

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R42, R12, R51/3, R69S

808Airhead
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Thanks for your interest

Thanks for your interest Peter.......I do LOVE good beer,however with the price & rarity of BMW parts,I tend to drink the beer AFTERWARDS to celebrate a successful job.....this bike has been frustrating at times,especially with pattern parts or parts on order,so I can only imagine booze fueling the fire during a intense situation,haha!
Here are some pictures of my progress,it is now getting exciting and I am soon getting my rims and intake tubes/brake links back from the chrome shop and getting the wheels built .........
As for the trans,there was almost no metallic swarf at all,and everything seems original and in good shape (30k on trans).I am hoping the new seals/gasket and some synthetic oil will give me a good operating trans for years to come,if not,I will be prepared to take it apart and change bearings/etc......
I had a badass,tattooed biker friend of mine with YEARS of experience come over and help me put some things together,without his help I might have been stuck on some of the jobs....many thanks for his help.
Here are the pictures I took today.........
Here is the fork,rebuilt with all new bearings/seals/stainless swingarm bolt & axle,as well as tapered fork bearings and SS hardware on the friction damper conversion (got rid of the hydraulic setup since the damper was shot,I have the complete setup if anyone is looking for one,other than the damper being no good,etc,.)

Beautifully powder coated frame with front fork/rear swingarm,wiring harness,center stand,battery tray/battery installed.If you look in the background you can see my powder coated air cleaner with the wonderful Hengst decals sold by a member on here,applied,and the knob that holds the aircleaner down was found,NOS on ebay Germany for 70 dollars......It was expensive,but a new one in the US is $130.00!

Front fork with new SS hardware,bluemoonscooter SS damping knob and cover,new rubber for headlight bracket,and original VIN plate (some history there,decided to use the original)

"Fake" old battery with gel-cell inside.

I just installed these new guides today and with my new rotating valves,the machine shop will cut the seats and I will have some nice heads......I got lucky ALL the threads were good and the seats and guide holes were great condition as well,a testament to the 33k mileage.

Trans,looks great inside,am going to seal it up and soda blast it.

Rebuilt rear end and swingarm with new bearings/seals

Here is the badass tattooed biker dude that helped me......

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

R60 Sweden
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Grrrrrreat!

Nice to see the pics & read the tips! No, inspiring... I am working on my R60 '68 that's been outdoors by the salty seaside for 20 years. Mechanically good but rusty & in need of all chrome, rubber & paint done.

I see some Vespas in the background, any more pics? Next to my R60 is a Vespa GL '64!

Cheers from Tobba in Sweden

Carl R50
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Bolt

You said you bought new SS Bolts from bluemoonscooter.
Have you heard of anybody buying the full bolt sets from "The Bolt Guy" ?

Would you recommenced it or not ?

Sheers from Sunny South Africa

808Airhead
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Tobba,good luck with your

Tobba,good luck with your rebuild.....I have a bunch of Vespas/Lambrettas......I just sold one Lambretta for 12K US believe it or not,it was a mint original,I have 2 GS's a 150 & 160,and they are very fun to wrench & ride on.I also did a couple Lambretta resorations as well.
Carl,I used Bluemoonscooter for the fork top bolts,damper knob & lower cover,as well as rear shock caps,and swingarm caps,pushrod tubes,and the stuff is great,it all fit well and looks much better than my aluminum stuff even after polishing the hell out of it,the SS looks so much better!
Carl,I also want to HIGHLY recommend Tom the Bolt guys stuff..........I am SO HAPPY I bought his "kit" it comes with almost ALL the fasteners you need.There are even SS D-bolts for the axle pinch area,as well as the handlebar riser pinch,and the headlight bolts are polished to look like chrome,and the transmission bag even has the bolts for the gear shift and the kickstart,a lot more included than I ever imagined.
Just got some stuff back from the chromers,so will be building the wheels and posting more pics soon.......

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

808Airhead
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OK,here is where I am as of

OK,here is where I am as of June 2010,rear brake linkage getting pieced together,rear brake shoes re-lined and installed,newly re-chromed risers and bars installed,seat installed,stop light switch and wiring clips,......now to building the wheels and getting the transmission finished...




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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Carl R50
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Hey Man Must say the Bike is

Hey Man

Must say the Bike is looking Good at this when do you expect to have it done?
I have a few questions on where you acquired some parts.

I see you have replaced all the Rubbers on the bike did you buy a whole set or just individual rubbers. The only place I have found rubbers was at S Meyer and then you need to take the whole set?

I also noticed you have a new brake “relay / switch” seen on you last picture where did you get that

Thanks

Carl

808Airhead
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Hello Carl,I was expecting to

Hello Carl,I was expecting to take a few "years",however I seem to be ahead of schedule and probably will have it almost complete by the end of the year.I have all the parts now,and will be sending the body work to get painted & striped.I am doing 2 things that are "non-correct",basically the R-51 handlebars (lower & wider) as well as powdercoating the rims BLACK.It will look good IMO,we will see.
I sourced the rubber kit from bluemooncycle and there was a good kit,very comprehensive,albeit expensive.I also got a few pieces from benchmarkworks.\
Brakelight switch was from S.Meyer,however it is not identical to OEM,I would try a good used one or benchmark for a brake switch,.
Basically everything was purchased from benchmarkworks/S.Meyer/bluemooncycler/bluemoonscooter.I have yet to use Uli's.......I do like what they offer however.
Definitely get the "bolt guy"'s stainless steel fastener kit,it is GREAT!!
Luckily I have the R60 to drive,if not,I would be RUSHING to finish this.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Carl R50
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Headlight Bucket

Well Powder coating the rims will make your bike something different, But I do remember reading an article about 2 guys also restoring a R60 and they powder coated the rims and from what I remembered they got compliments from other Vintage BMW bikers.

Question you said you will be sending your body work for paint soon? I am about to send my Frame / Body work for paint but I am worried about the headlight bucket.
How do you remove the circuit board without damaging the clips that hold it down?
I have seen a few topics about people suggesting heating up the point in order for them not to break but never heard of someone actually removing the board without any damage?

I will have to remove my Board as the inside of my Headlight bucket is a bit rusted and will have to be sandblasted and treated before any paint can come on.

So got any words of advice Smile

808Airhead
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Update; I have been busy so I

Carl,I am sorry,I totally spaced out on the reply,if you haven't already done the job,you can use a small motorcycle battery and heat up the prongs by touching them to each prong one at a time until they get red so they are annealed. (You can thank the Barrington manual for that tip)This will not disturb the paint if done correctly. Sorry again for the late reply.
Now back to business
Update; I have been busy so I have only been able to squeeze small jobs in here & there on the bike,but it has now added up to some real progress. The original rims were powdercoated black (non-original,but I think it will look good,and the rims came with the bike and are original dimpled type)and with the stainless steel spokes & vintage Metzeler block C's ,I think they look great.
After inspecting the trans,I reassembled & soda blasted it,as well as installing all new seals/gasket. Fortunately gears and bearings were all immaculate & servicable,so I really lucked out on the trans. I was also able to polish the gear shift & kickstart levers,it is not professional looking polish,but this will be a rider.


On the engine,a new complete repro clutch assembly was installed and that is what you will see in the first picture below.......

After wrapping the frame with strips of towel (you can also use elastic ankle wrap,thanks Barrington manual!!)I proceeded to install the engine using a low profile floor jack & a block of wood.Fortunately I wrapped the frame very well since I had to wiggle the engine in by myself and the reward was not a single scratch on the fresh powdercoat!
Here is the engine going in.


Here is a thing of beauty,the newly rebuilt engine & freshened up transmission......life is good.


You can see the black rims,I guess you either like them or you don't. SOme random shots of all the hard work.
\

Just for fun,I stuck the chrome intake tubes in just to fire up the imagination


Here is the rear end with the stainless hardware,black rims and restored final drive

The body parts are getting single stage paint and hand pinstripe as we speak. It has been about a year and I cannot believe it is almost done!!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

jeff dean
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Black rims?

Black rims?

808Airhead
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Yes,my personal touch It

Yes,my personal touch Wink It also has R51/3 handlebars which are lower/wider. This is a resto/rider,but not going for concourse resto...main thing is I like it.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

Zeno Lee
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Joined: 10/26/2009
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Black rims make the tires look fat

Visually, I think the black rims throw off the balance of the wheel size compared to the rest of the bike. It gives the bike a fat tire look.

I'm hoping you don't take this as a criticism of your restoration. Your restoration looks amazing in my eyes.

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'62 R69S
'65 R50/2
'76 R90/6

808Airhead
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Zeno,thanks for the

Zeno,thanks for the comments.I totally agree with you that it gives it a big tire look. I really like it,I almost wish I painted the spokes as well,but that is too much trouble. I did it since it really gives it a vintage/older style IMO. When it is finished I think it will look great with the body work,etc.....I saw another /2 with black rims and realy liked it,so it inspired my bike.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

jon-r227
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Raleigh, NC
Joined: 09/22/2010
Posts: 17
Great job on the restoration.

Great job on the restoration. I really like the black rims too.

I am just getting started on a '50 r25 restoration (my first, although I have been working on all things mechanical for 25 years). I have a few questions I hope you can help with. My restoration so far appears to be mainly cosmetic and if possible I am going to try and avoid tearing the engine all the way down. For the various parts what's the best way to bring back their luster? Ie. engine cases, trans case, etc. you mention soda blasting. I picked up a sand/bead blasting enclosure is it just a matter of using soda instead of the beads? For the other parts that require chrome are you just using a local chromer? Anything to look out for and what condition do the parts need to be in when delivered for chroming. Approx cost for chroming?

Thanks!

Jon

808Airhead
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Thanks,and glad you can see

Thanks,and glad you can see the beauty in the black rim look Wink
Congratulations on your new project. When you are talking about a "cosmetic resto" that would only be a good idea IMO if the bike is otherwise perfect mechanically. They are really a pleasure to work on,and I enjoy doing the work (except when it gets difficult of course!) .Definitely take the motor out and inspect/refreshen it and at the same time if you are going through the trouble of painting it,you might as well check out the bearings in the swingarms/wheels/fork stem/and while you are there inspect the clutch,etc,......you know what I am getting at!
Even if the bike is low mileage original,the grease still is congealed in the bearings,and sludge in the motor..so if you
like mechanical things,it will be rewarding in the long run to work on.
For the soda blasting,I did it outdoors and it is OK if you want a natural finish,however it is not agressive so it has to be in pretty good shape to begin with,here is a link to my soda blasting on the engiine,you can see if this is what will work for you.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/6049

Yes the chrome is locally done and they did a great job on my intake tubes/braker parts/risers,but a very lackluster job on the R69s rims, however I ended up using them on my R60/2,as "rider rims"so I am not disappointed since the bike has patina.
Here are pics of those rims on my other bike,they really made it look nice especially since it had rusty spokes/rims before.

http://www.vintagebmw.org/v7/node/6655

The old R60/2 rims I had powdercoated and these are in the pics. Unfortunately there is only 1 chrome shop in Oahu so I figured just use powder coat these rims and if I don't like how they look I will buy new SS ones....
Good luck and have fun.Uli's online store has a "hop up" kit for the singles and it looks nice,check it out.

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

jon-r227
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Awesome.. Thanks!

Awesome.. Thanks!

Dominic
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Bullaburra Australia
Joined: 05/03/2010
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Been reading you updates with

Been reading you updates with interest,...the build is looking great.

Dominic
R69S & R75/5
Australia

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Dominic
1968 R69US
1973 R75/5
1971 Norton

R60 Sweden
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Just awesome!

Great work! Looking forward to the last episode with bodyparts & stuff!

I do like the rims, got a set of rusty ones waiting to be re-chromed. But this has put ideas in my head... possibly they will be black instead?

Tobba

R60 Sweden
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Just awesome!

Great work! Looking forward to the last episode with bodyparts & stuff!

I do like the rims, got a set of rusty ones waiting to be re-chromed. But this has put ideas in my head... possibly they will be black instead?

Tobba

808Airhead
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Hello! Glad some of you are

Hello! Glad some of you are watching & enjoying the progress! Will post some more pictures soon of the heads & exhaust installed....
Aloha & ahui hou

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

fawudd
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Thanks for posting this

Thanks for posting this process. The work looks great so far and I am looking forward to the last part of this story.

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secretsenor
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Newcastle, Australia
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inspiring stuff - I bet you

inspiring stuff - I bet you can't wait to kick it over.

808Airhead
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Aloha & happy holidays

Aloha & happy holidays everybody,wishing you & yours the best.
It has been awhile,but here are some pictures of the bike and where it is at today. Progress is slow since I have also been restoring a 57' VW engine,so resources & time have been split between 2 projects,but the VW is done,so back to the bike full speed ahead.
Secretsenor,I am getting closer to that day and cannot wait to kick it over & ride it for the first time.
I want to reiterate,this bike is a "resto custom",so I have taken some liberties to personalise it to my taste. I first intended to do a "factory resto",but I already have a original bike,and back when these bikes were new,owners modified them to suite their tastes,some for better,some for worse,so here it is,for better or worse...........
Electrics installed;

Head installed and SS pipes by Keihan,had to order them from England;

A shot of the rear fender,with new lense/bezel and stainless steel "R69S" logo from bluemoonscooter.Once you bend the badge slightly to match the curve of the fender it fit perfect.

Black rim installed with the fender ,here you can then pinstripes,done by hand,INCORRECTLY!!!

Another shot of the fender with "incorrect" striping. I quote this because although incorrect,I actually really like it so I will keep it this way.
The Keihan pipes installed,these are very nice quality,however the fit could have been better considering the price paid. I had to "ovalise" the mounting holes where the bolts pass through since the pipe would touch/hit the frame otherwise.

Ok,here is the tank with new knee pads,filler cap,logos,lid screw,etc., the paint is deep and lustrous,HOWEVER ,look closely and you will see where the painter/striper TOTALLY screwed up and painted the "thin stripe" WAY too thick!!!! AAARGH!
Between my awful chrome plating and this, it is hard to find any quality artisans on this island of Oahu. I am sure they are here,but they just aren't the guys I went to unfortunately.
When I dropped off the body parts they had the paint job and TAPE pinstripes that were applied some time in the 70's/80's (look at the first pictures in this thread and you can see them)and I told the painter "I can e-mail you some pictures or give you a CD to show you how the bikes were striped originally. He replied "oh,I have done these before and have some BMW books I can look at".
I say,"no problem",and drop off the parts and 1/2 the money for the job.
Well almost 2.5 months go by and I call him and say "if you cannot give me a date these will be finished,I am going to pick them up and take them somewhere else."
He gave me a date and I can tell he had JUST finished them and he basically rushed it to meet his "date".
I was elated,they looked gorgeous,and was beaming on the ride home.When I put the parts in the garage I looked at my original bike I realised he made the "skinny stripe" WAY TOO WIDE! He basically just "copied the tape pinstripes" that were on the tank instead of referring to any reference material and I ended up with this beautiful,incorrectly striped tank.
Well I looked at it,and realised until I noticed the mistake I was totally happy,and looking at it some more I realised the like the bolder stripe and it looked like it fit the sporty nature of the R69s and I think it differentiates it from my R60,like a more agressive "race stripe"........whatever,love it or hate it,I like it and it is going to stay.....

I have installed the tank and will post some pics of it soon,Aloha!
PS,if you are interested,here are pictures of my other "German black beauty" and it's engine that I just finished a complete restoration on. 1957 Deluxe,58,000 original miles

Original 36hp motor (yes,less hp than the R69s)rebuilt & restored

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

miller6997
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I've been enjoying your

I've been enjoying your journal on this project. It's only regarding the pinstripes that I would really disagree with your decision. I had a front fender painted and striped recently, and while the Glasurit paint was excellent, the stripes looked goofy. I paid a fair price and therefore complained immediately. The striper was able to "wash" the stripes off without disturbing the paint and then do them again. The second time, he got it right. In this case the Glasurit paint was two stage, and the stripes were on top of the clear coat. I think your nitwit striper has actually taken value away from you, and personally, I would not accept it.

Having expressed my opinion, I will also say that it's your bike and you are the only person who has to be satisfied with any of the details.

(I like your VW! I have a '67 that you are welcome to practice on.)

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Jon Miller
'67 R69S
'13 F800GT
Altadena, California

808Airhead
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Thanks for your feedback and

Thanks for your feedback and I totally understand where you are coming from and I intended to do exactly what you described,however "I" really like how it looks and since I am 40 years old and intend on keeping it as long as I can ride,I figure I have a good 20 years with the bike,and I can live with it,so the "value" thing is not something I really worry about since it is intended to be a toy I will enjoy for many years to come.
Your point is VERY valid,however it is not something that I am going to think about much longer,I have already decided to keep it as is.There are only 3-4 R69s in Hawaii,so it is not something people will notice is wrong,but even if they do,I built it for myself,not anyone else.
You have a 67' Beetle,that is what is considered the "best year" for the classic Beetle for usability/daily drivability.Definitely a classic! Aloha,and Happy Holidays!

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

sonofrust
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Lafayette, Colorado
Joined: 05/04/2009
Posts: 98
Brother, I hear you. If you

Brother, I hear you. If you like it, don't let anyone tell you different, especially yourself. I'm a low buck player in the old car and bike hobby for about 25 years now, and I wish I had all the time and money back that was lost fussing and bothering about not getting or having everything "correct" and completely original looking. The worst of it was that many times the obsession was fueled by what other "experts" might say or the dreaded resale issue. I simply don't have the time, money or interest anymore to really care that much. Of course, this is a vintage owners site that prides itself on the whole idea of preservation. You better believe many of the folks here paid mucho bucks to get that last little item perfectly plated or polished; not too shiny, I might add. Painting rims black or striping that is 2 mm too wide is pretty much heresy for some. I get it, in some strange way, but I've determined it's a hard way to conduct business for me. You'll have a beautiful bike when you're done that you basically redid yourself. Just looking at the pictures gets me excited for you as you anticipate that first ride. I've grown to truly believe that these items are meant to be used and enjoyed for their intended purpose. I ride, enjoy, and appropriately care for all of my bikes and have learned to be much less fussy and don't obsess on the minor details; I'm happier as a result. Good luck as you turn the final corner on your awesome project.

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1964 BMW R60/2, 2010 Harley-Davidson Road King Police, 2006 Kawasaki ZX-14

808Airhead
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Sonofrust,I want to say thank

Sonofrust,I want to say thank you for writing such a well worded,insightful post and I too,can understand the originality/provenance/patina collector worlds. It seems I am in the middle of the road,where I do appreciate machines "restored as they were meant to be from the factory",yet also can appreciate the slightly modified bikes as well,such as bags/fairings/bars,etc...
I am with you when you say it makes your life a little easier and sometimes modifications are born out of necessity. For instance my re-chromed rims came out spotty from the chromers so I put those on my R60/2 rider and decided to black powder coat another set of streel rims instead of paying again for crappy chrome,and I am stoked I did it I think it looks very cool.......not to mention I took some liberties with chroming of the brake rod,and front brake arms,etc. check out the pictures
Sonofrust,again your words are much appreciated.Mahalo
In my case,once I bought that stainless steel bolt kit,that was already a deviation from stock,not to mention SS mufflers,SS spokes,SS fender bow,SS axles,SS damper knob,SS swingarm caps,SS front swingarm axle ($180.00!!),etc,etc..it already ceased being a perfect factory resto.
Since I intended to use it near the coast/beach Wink the SS stuff was the way to go and am pleased I went this route,as well as the rims,etc.
Here are some pictures of one of the last operations of the build,which is the restoration and installation of the headlight bucket.

The first operation was installing the re-chromed key switch slider housing. Since it was rechromed the tangs were a little more tricky to bend down and I did not want to hit it with a punch & miss denting the bucket,etc.
I tool a approx1/8"diam. steel cotter pin,(which I had previously cut the straight piece off of to make a hing pin for the tool box lid on the Scorsch-Meier sport tank),and using a very fine dremel cutting wheel,made a slightly angled cut into the end and used this tool to bend the tangs and it worked great. For the switchboard it served a function of baeding the tangs down enough then with long screwdriver through the speedo cable hole, (unless you have a skinny 10-12 inch punch,I am a professional mechanic and don't have one!)tap down with a small hammer the rest of the way. The switchboard has to be held down tight,and this tool cannot get the bend down enough,however it really works well if you have to bend them up or move the tangs around to line them up.
Here is the tool I made

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Thomas M.
R69s - R60/2 - R67/2 - R51/3

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