Fri, 03/26/2010 - 07:26
I have a 1972 75/5 that has a short in the (i think) headlight bucket. I actually live in Reno but am selling this beauty to a friend in Oakland who claims to not be not so mechanical, though my struggle with this short is killing my own mechanical ego. Anyway, I'd like to locate someone to take on this issue and become the "go to guy" for my friend and future owner of this fine piece of machinery in the Oakland/East Bay or SF area.
Even though this sale is cutting my old BMW stock by 50%, I still have the other 50%, so I'm still in the loop.
Cheers.
- 427 reads
Fri, 03/26/2010 - 11:23
#2
When the key is pushed into
When the key is pushed into position the proper lights come on, ready for the starter to be engaged. When I hit the starter, everything shuts down, almost as if there is not a good enough ground. I only say "short" because I can pull the key out then depress it again, with no lights coming on, knock on the headlight bucket and that seems to jiggle something that makes the lights come back on. The frustrating part is that I know something is loose in there, I just cannot pinpoint it after touching and jiggling each wire in every possible way. Now it could be in the key switch itself. A friend suggested I may need a whole new bucket in order to get a new key switch. That is where I'm at.
Any input is greatly appriciated.
Fri, 03/26/2010 - 12:05
#3
The bike has the "nail" for a
The bike has the "nail" for a key, right? If so, you don't have to buy a new bucket to get a few switch. BMW Hucky's shows a new circuit board p/n 61 32 8 048 173 sold separately.
It might be that the circuit board parts are not making/breaking correctly. Admittedly, this circuit board looks daunting...two of my bikes have this kind of board. If you think you have to replace this board, note that it's held in by four bent over tabs. They must be bent back just enough to allow the board to be removed. They won't allow for much repeated bending and could break off. I think the trick is to use a small heat source, something that can direct heat right where it's needed at the base of the tab. Might need to put a cold, damp cloth on the outside to help draw the heat away from the paint.
It really does sound like a ground, and if you can hit the headlight shell, then almost certainly the problem is inside. I'd try to be more specific with my pushing and poking until I could find something that was a direct cause-and-effect and then fix that part. Use something like a long pencil and use it to prod various parts.
Although not really close to Oakland, you could get the service you need at Ted Porter's shop, in Scotts Valley (near Santa Cruz).
What are the symptoms of your electrical fault? A "short" usually means smoke and fire, or at least blown fuses.
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