Mon, 05/10/2010 - 11:16
Hi Guys
I am in the Process of doing a full Frame up Restoration of a R50 I acquired about 2 Months ago. I have posted some questions in the past but have decided to have one huge form like airhead808. Unfortunately I am not in his league of restoring a R69S but I will give it my best.
I will be posting some pics of the bike and as time goes by will be asking for some advice as time goes by.
But let’s start with the Question. And trust me some of them are going to be stupid ones.
I have removed the Head and Barrels and after having them inspected it looks like I have to go to 2de Oversize on the pistons. My question is what will be the best to have them re sleeved or just bore them 2de oversize ?
The head are in not so good shape, In my previous posting I asked about Exhaust thread repair after inspecting the head I will have to get the threads repaired as well as one of the head got a striped spark plug as well as the stud that hold the valve cover in place is also striped. What will you guys suggest a helicoil or have the head surface build up with Aluminum and then tap new holes ?
And now for the stupid question how the Hell do one remove the Push Rod tubes. I tried to use a punch the size of the tubes to remove them but had no luck. I must also say I was a bit scared and did not hammer to hard when I tried to remove them ?
Thanks for you Help
Carl
- 1862 reads
Mon, 05/10/2010 - 14:01
#2
You can definitely bore to
You can definitely bore to 2nd, 3rd and even 4th over. My R51/3 is at 3rd over. Buy your pistons and rings first, then have the cylinders bored to match them.
What year is your R50? Before 1967 and the long reach plugs, there would have been a steel spark plug insert. However, in the mid 1960s, the heads were cast from an alloy that isn't stable, and from my experience, you'll lose the original inserts and any new ones you try to have installed. I had to have my heads welded, milled and tapped, and now the plugs go directly into the aluminum, so I'm very careful not to strip them. The long reach (3/4" spark plug tips) heads have LK cast in directly adjacent to the plug hole, and have no inserts. You could have a helicoil or timesert insert installed there to fix it.
Just use a helicoil to fix the stud on top of the head for the valve cover.
Mon, 05/10/2010 - 16:00
#3
Vech has tools and parts as
Vech has tools and parts as well, such as the push rod tube drift. Be sure and make appropriate measurements BEFORE you drift out the tubes. You'll need that in order to put the tubes back into the same position. You need that in order to get the right amount of squeeze on the pushrod tube seals.
As for boring, you might consider using the services of Bore-Tech. They're listed in the club's resource listings. They can put a carbide coating once the cylinders have been bored to match. This coating will greatly extend the life of the cylinders. It's not unlike the Nikasil coatings used on '81-on Airheads.
Tue, 05/11/2010 - 12:42
#4
According to Andreas Harz I
According to Andreas Harz I have a very late 1968 Model plus according to the Registration papers it's 1969 Model.
I have confirmed this by also looking on Jeff Dean website where he explains some of the /2 Models
"For the 1969 model year only slash-2s came with red generator indicator lights on the headlight."
As my Model does have this Generator Light
Tue, 05/11/2010 - 12:48
#5
Thanks Kurt
I would have just
Thanks Kurt
I would have just removed them without even measuring them.
I have read about the Bore-Tech service with the Coating but it's going to be dam near imposable for me to send the Cylinders to the US for boring.
So will have to get local engineering shops to do the work for me
Tue, 05/11/2010 - 17:40
#6
Carl -
I didn't know where
Carl -
I didn't know where you were located, so didn't realize that shipping would be a problem.
So, is your bike a '68 or '69? You indicate both. What specifically did Andreas provide as to build date? My R69S was built in Apr/May 1968 (that's a specific as he could say) but then was delivered to a dealer in December 1968. My interpretation of this is that BMW made a bunch of bikes and they sat in the warehouse waiting for requests from the dealers. When dealers requested bikes, they went to the warehouse and started stamping VINs on bikes. So, in the traditional sense, my bike might be considered a '68 as it was built before the Aug/Sept cutoff. But since it wasn't actually delivered and sold until after Aug/Sept, then it's a 1969. This is a loose interpretation for the /2 era...beginning with the /5s, they began to use the Aug/Sept period as a separation between model years.
I'm not sure Jeff's info is 100% accurate...BMW did many things and it was somewhat of a fluid situation. My '69 model (Earles fork) does not have the separate light for the generator on the headlight shell, as shown by Jeff's one picture. I have the two lights (red for generator and green for neutral) below the speedo...no other light. The presence of these additional lights comes up for discussion. IIRC, the generator light was added in the special hole and the other light below the speedo was converted to a high beam indicator. I don't think I've heard a hard and fast rule for when this additional light was used. Roland Slabon mentions it in his book, but I don't have access to it now.
Wed, 05/12/2010 - 12:22
#7
Hi Kurt
Here is the Mail I
Hi Kurt
Here is the Mail I got from Andreas Harz
"Dear Mr van Niekerk,
Thank you for your email.
The BMW R 50/2 VIN 646408 was manufactured late in 1968 (so this would fit to a 1969 model). Further details are not known, because the delivery records are not complete anymore.
The R 50/5 models had a different number range, their VIN's were made of seven numbers, not six.
We hope this information is helpful for you.
Yours sincerely,
Andreas Harz"
So for all arguments sake I think I have a 68 Model.
I have been in contact with Dan at Cycle works and have Order some of the Tool as well as a 2nd Oversize Piston Kit.
If all goes well it will arrive in about 4 weeks time 
Wed, 05/12/2010 - 13:53
#8
Carl -
I would count your
Carl -
I would count your bike as a '69 model. As I mentioned, BMW has been producing bikes for a given model year that are built between September of one year to August the next year. My '78 R100/7 was built in September 1977 but is titled as a 1978 model. So your late 1968 R50/2 would be a '69 model in my mind.
Sometimes they're records can be sketchy or incomplete regarding delivery dates, etc. Like you, I was only told my bike was built in the spring of 1968 (no specific date) but they did tell me it went to a dealer on a specific day in December 1968. My 1952 R25/2 was built on June 3, 1952...Andreas had that information in his records.
Tue, 07/13/2010 - 04:22
#9
Guy’s
I have a question
Guy’s
I have a question regarding replacing the Steering Ball Bearing with New Taper Bearing.
I had a look on the S Meyer site and they sell the bearing but they are NOT for the US Models.
Is there a Different Bearing depending on US or Europe Models?
Or does anybody have a Bearing Number they can give me?
Thanks Carl
Tue, 07/13/2010 - 06:45
#10
I don't know the generic
I don't know the generic numbers for these bearings, but they are a little strange from what I can remember. I bought mine from Vech:
31 42 2 000 000--$49.95--tapered roller bearing set for steering head R5-R71 R24-R69S (US fork requires two adapter rings 31 42 2 000 001)
Tue, 08/31/2010 - 11:58
#11
Pin Striping
Hi Guys
It’s time again for me to draw on your expertise. I am about to send the Bike in for paint / pin striping. I have decided to use the Dover White Mixture supplied by Tim Stafford. But what I am going to require is the measurement on the Pin Striping. I have previously seen a posting on pin striping with their dimensions but can’t seem to find it at this stage.
I need the dimensions around the fenders as well as the Tank. The reason I need this is my bike was painted black and in doing that removed all reference to the pin striping.
Plus I need to ask you opinion I am removing my bench seat and adding a single Denfeld or Pagusa seat. Do you guys think one should add a second one on top of the rear fender or will the bike be a bit underpowered to carry 2 people. If that the case I want to add a rear luggage rack.
Thanks for your Help
Carl
Tue, 08/31/2010 - 13:14
#12
Carl,I would go to
Carl,I would go to google.com,type in "BMW Dover white" or "BMW R50 R60 R69s",and when the results come up,look in the upper left corner and you will see a "images" script. Click on "images" and you will get a ton of pictures showing up,then you can save these to a disc or hard drive and show them to your painter.That is what I am doing.
The bikes look really cool with only one seat,and that is how I am doing my R69s,IMO it gives it a more sporting look,however my R60 has both and it gives it a more touring style look. Good luck with your project!
Tue, 08/31/2010 - 15:28
#13
Previous post
Previous post about pin striping was:
Sun, 09/19/2010 - 02:15
#14
Shock Absorbers
Hi Guys while the bike is in for paint I have decided to look at the shock absorbers and have a few questions.
Both front shocks appears to be in a Ok shape as in the way they both compress but the one does appear to have a bit of a oil leak.
Can one send these shocks in for reconditioning or is there a repair kit available ?
Or is it better just to replace them
Sun, 09/19/2010 - 04:08
#15
I had the same dilema as
I had the same dilema as you,so I bought a set of Mobile Tradition repro shocks,they are nice.I still have one original shock that is not leaking,and if you want it,it is yours for 20 bucks+shipping.
I got the shocks from Benchmarkworks if you want to go new.
Thu, 11/18/2010 - 13:20
#16
Universal Joint
Hi Guys
Hope all are well. Need some info / help here
The Drive shaft Universal Joint is shot but the rest still looks in good nick. I saw one can order a replacement Universal Joint from
Vech - “26 11 3 038 034U”
Have anyone replace just the joint before and how successful was it. Or will it be better to take the plunge and replace the whole thing ?
Thanks
Carl
Thu, 11/18/2010 - 16:03
#17
The prewar U joints were
The prewar U joints were repairable. The postwar joints were tack welded together and not intended to be repaired (but a skilled craftsman can do it). Your bike is in the middle, but the silver Behelfs-Katalog doesn't show separate parts, so you're in the boat with the rest of the postwar plungers. Call up Vech and ask him about it!
Sat, 11/20/2010 - 04:15
#18
Yes,you will have to have a
Yes,you will have to have a vise/press for the u-joint and a way to grind the tack welds.Every now & then you will see a good u-joint for sale on ibmwr.org or ebay. Vech sells (I am assuming)a generic u-joint that "fits" and the tricky part is grinding the tack welds without damaging the yoke and removing/installing the u-joint (the right tools) and then "re-tacking" the u-jpint without overheating the joint and boiling the grease out.......I have been lucky with my 2 bikes having perfect u-joints,however am prepared to take this on if need be so I looked into what it entails.
I want to add..this is a long thread with NO pictures .........post some pictures please! We all want to SEE the progress!! 
Aloha!
Fri, 12/03/2010 - 03:24
#19
Thanks for the Info will try
Thanks for the Info will try the cheaper option and it that does not work might have to replace the whole thing.
Regarding posting some pictures I will make a plan and post some but sorry to say the progress has been very slow. As I am getting married in Jan most of the cash I had earmarked for the bike had to go in paying for the wedding. So if everything goes according to plan the pace will start to pick up in February 
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 03:30
#21
Hi Wynand
Glad to have a few
Hi Wynand
Glad to have a few extra South Africans on this form. I am from Johannesburg and I am buys with a R50/2. My R50 was not in the best of shape when I got her but hell think I got her for R8000.00 about "$1100" for the rest of you guys. I have since started stripping down the bike form frame up rebuild.
But due to the Wedding and stuff the progress on the bike is slow. I will post some pics of before the Strip down.
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 09:52
#22
What's the history on your
What's the history on your bike? How did a US model (mph speedo, the US handlebars with the cross brace and I see a hole in one of the headlight ears that would have been used to hold a reflector) bike make it to South Africa?
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 13:20
#23
Hi Darryl
Sorry to say but
Hi Darryl
Sorry to say but there is not allot I know about the bike. I have been in Contact with Andreaz Harz but all he was able to confirm was the year model "late 1968". He also stated "Further details are not known, because the delivery records are not complete anymore"
So I have no idea on how this bike got to South Africa.
I was able to get the South Africa License records and it records the first owner of the bike in 1979. Now I don't know if that is the year the bike arrived in South Africa or maybe the license system does not keep information that far in the past. So regarding the Speedo , Handlebars I don't know if the bike came with them or if they where fitted afterwords ?.
Sorry for not being able to give more information on the Bike
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 13:33
#24
Looks like a good,solid resto
Looks like a good,solid resto candidate! Time to make some tea,roll back the cuffs,and get dirty!
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 15:43
#25
Carl, pity you are in JHB but
Carl, pity you are in JHB but good to know there's more fellow countryman sharing the same passion.
I think one can cancel out the fact that the speedo is in mph. Both my R50 and /2 have a mph speedo. Also all the other /2's I have seen has one. And according to Andreas my bikes were imported to South Africa.
My guess: Vehicles in South Africa were mostly American and some British back in the days. Chev's, Fords, Packards etc. were common back in the 50's - 70's and dominated the market. (There is still today a General Motors factory/assebly plant in South Africa). Today its dominated by the Japanese and Koreans I would say. Anyway, all these vehicles up to 1971 used mph speedo's as that was the imperial unit used at the time. I think the system was changed from imperial to metric from 1971 - 1973. From 1972 the came out in km/h.
I can only think that in the 50's and 60's, mph was the accepted system everyone was familiar with and somehow the order must have requested bikes to be fitted with a mph speedo's. Could the importer have specified this??
For the handlebars......no idea. I have seen a local R69S for sale though the other day with the American version handlebars. Went for $8500 if my memory serves me correct. Below are 2 pictures I saved from the add. Quality's not that good. Wonder what this machine whould have gone for in the US?
One day I'll organize a Vintage BMW South Africa / USA exchange visit........
Sun, 01/30/2011 - 17:59
#26
Interesting! Because that
Interesting! Because that "R69S" you're displaying is an R69US -- with the US forks -- which I understood only went to the US. When that bike was new, in the US you could buy it with either the Earles style fork or the new telescopics. The US style bars are interesting too, because they were supplied by the Flanders Co. of Pasadena, California. And the bike also displays the side reflectors, which were required by US DOT regulation starting in 1968. This bike was clearly manufactured for the US market.
Mon, 01/31/2011 - 02:02
#27
Darryl I agree. Should have
Darryl I agree. Should have asked the seller for the vin number and maybe the history.
Must say, from everything I've seen advertised locally over the past few years, this one stood out just because of this (US specs), and the reason I saved the photos.
You can simply re-bore them.As for heads,there was a set of rebuilt heads that have been on ebay for months now,they may still be there,from as ebay user "VS4" which is Tim Stafford,he is selling 2 heads for $750.00,this would be your cheapest option for some good heads.Getting my headfs rebuilt with new valves,etc,is a $600.00+ proposition,so to get complete heads for that price is a good deal.
Your restoration is basically the same as mine,other than the engine.
It feels good to do everything myself rather than buy a restored bike,however it is not even nearly finished and I am up to over $12,000.00 in the bike & parts already!!And I am doing most of the work myself! Get ready to spend some cash!
If you intend on doing a lot of work yourself,by all the cycleworks tools,I spent around $800.00 or so and bought almost all the tools they sell,and it was worth every penny.They sell a pushrod tube drift as well......pistons are around $400.00 with rings.....getting your crankshaft inspected,and in good condition is your main concern.etc.