First off, Hello to everyone!
My Name is Brian, and I recently became the owner of a 1977 R100RS, I have never had a BMW nor do I know anything about them… lol
My last bike was a ’07 Suzuki Gsx R600, had to sell due to financial reasons, and miss it.
My father-in-law had this bike in his shed, he had given it to my wife before we met and her late husband had tinkered with it some, what he attempted to do was the “Dual Pluggin” I haven’t been able to find very much info on this, what I have found I don’t know if I like the sounds of it, with Timing, points and all the mods you have to do.
My question is, “is this a good modification or is it bad?” I know it also depends on how it was done, who done, it and if it was done right, that’s what I don’t know I am opening up a can of worms with this bike because I have no clue what he had done to it. I do know that the wiring harness is a mess, it appears that it has caught on fire before. My father-in-law is trying to find the Clymer service manual he had for it, so I can make a new wiring harness.
I did manage to get it started but I think the timing is off, and now it is not firing at all. IMO I think the rings are bad, it smokes a little bit and the right side seems to have more compression than the left, and I hear a lot of “pinging”. I am thinking about getting new rings another set of heads and going back stock with this bike? Thought, Input, on that?
Also I am still trying to find places to get parts, any recommendations would be appreciated.
I want to do this bike in the Café Racer style, I have mechanical experience, just not with BMW, this engine reminds me of a VW engine. I am also a fabricator, welder by trade, so I am able to do pretty much anything I set my mind to.
I will try and post some pictures later.
Greatly appreciate any and all input, or advice!
Thank you
Brian
You've got a tiger by the tail there...that looks like a small battery in there...it should basically fill the tray. The red thing is a crankshaft-mounted electronic ignition system. The points are below the alternator and are probably not hooked up. Not sure off-hand who makes that ignition system...there's probably something stamped into the unit that would tell you. Looks like it also has a non-stock diode board above, where all the three wires are going to.
That sure is a rat's nest of wires. You'll need to get a good wiring diagram and follow things around. There's one here for the '78s...probably should be mostly the same:
For the time being why don't you just remove the extra plug wires (leave the extra plugs in the head) and get everything sorted out before you sink alot of money into replacing the heads. You have a great start on a great bike! Ya, it's not as fast or handle like your other bike you had, but a fun bike that everyone knows and likes, you'll see.
Brian great choice on the bike grin....
I also have a 77RS, my second one of the same year.....happy to help you out with pictures of what is wired to what if you like.....give a shout
Shiny side up
Pete
Hate to hear it Brian, the RS would have been worth the time and investment......
However, on the flip side, you increased the worth of mine, by taking yours off the road....
There weren't that many 77's as it was the first year for the radical style change....and if you are fortunate enough to have one without the CFO prefix on the serial number, it's worth even more....
Guess you could always part it out and use the $$ to build and rebuild the Honda...
Cheers
Pietro




















Nice bike...the '77 R100RS is probably one of the premier BMWs to have. Great fairing and one of the most powerful BMWs built before they started in on the EPA mods that toned the bike down. Do you have still have the fairing? What color? I'll be nice to see your pictures.
As for dual plugging... It's a nice mod but IMO, not a must. It's greatest claim to fame is to get it to run on lower octane fuel and probably improve starting. It will also help eliminate the pinging since you have two flame fronts to help burn the gas before the piston gets to TDC.
But the timing has to be adjusted. There are two ways. The simplest way is to set the static timing such that the points open very near OT...this is different than the usual timing which is the S-mark or about 6-9 degrees BTDC. The second way is to leave static timing the way it is (at the S-mark) but limit the range of full advance. The reason for all this is that since you have two flame fronts, the cylinder charge burns faster, so you need spark faster.
Tom Cutter wrote a book on dual plugging. It's available here:
http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/Downloads/TomCutterDualPlugIgnition...
Tom is a BMW trained mechanic and has recently been given the Friend of the Marque honor. That's high praise indeed. You can take anything he says to the bank. Great guy. Be sure and read the disclaimer, however, at the front of this document. He readily admits that things have changed regarding dual plugging.
You would do well to bookmark Snowbum's website at http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/techindex.htm. He also has article on dual plugging at:
http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/dualplugging.htm
Another guy on the other coast that is very good with BMWs and has experimented a lot with dual plugging is Ted Porter. His website is http://www.beemershop.com.
That said, a properly tuned bike does not need dual plugging. My /7, nearly the same as your bike, runs find on premium gas. I do have 100K on the bike and she's in need of a top end, so I get some pinging if the gas is not quite up to snuff or I really get on it. But dual plugging is not the bees knees in all cases.
Tom and Ted are good for parts and tech support. BMW Hucky's is also good for parts. Used parts available here in Texas is Mickey at Airhead Salvage, outside of San Marcos. Website is http://www.airheadsalvage.com.
Dallas/Forth Worth is your closest bet for quick support. Another place that comes to mind is Boxers by Bruce. http://www.boxerbruce.com/. He's a pretty decent guy too.
The smoking could be just due to sitting too long. Doing a compression check or leak down test will let you know what's going on. Getting the bike timed right and using quality gas may eliminate the pinging.
If it were me, I'd try to get all the mechanicals worked out and see how she ran before I made wholesale changes. But you're also looking at all fluids, possibly even bearings in the wheels, tires, battery, etc.
If you want, we can start an oil and tire thread!! Uh, let's not...for now.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2