Mon, 04/30/2012 - 10:52
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I'm helping a friend rebuild her R69s. This is my 3rd /2 engine rebuild.
The generator armature is really stuck on tight. I bent my puller bolt
which I bought from Ed Korn back in '92. I noticed it was marked 8.8.
I ordered a new puller bolt as I understand they are 10.9 hardness now.
In the meantime my friend consulted with a bike mechanic friend who is familiar with BMW
and he loaned her a 40mm(ish) slug and bolt. Against my better judgement I tried
it, and now that slug is crushed down inside at an angle.
I'm thinking maybe putting a bolt on and attaching a slide hammer to the bolt
is the only solution now, as I can't get my new puller bolt in there with
that slug.
Anyone else had this problem, or a better solution ?
- 331 reads
Mon, 04/30/2012 - 13:23
#2
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The slug is just that, a
The slug is just that, a short 35-40mm smooth slug. Kinda like the end of the puller bolt where there are
no threads. It wasn't attached to anything. They mechanic she borrowed it from used it in conjunction
with a threaded bolt to push the armature off, Thus saving all of 8 dollars on the puller bolt from
Benchmark.
Thu, 05/03/2012 - 16:56
#3
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I welded up a 5/8" nut to an
I welded up a 5/8" nut to an M8 X 1.25 bolt, which attached to the end of a slide hammer borrowed from Auto Zone.
Took about 3 or 4 "gentle" raps and it came right off.
Phew !!
The first photo is the welded bolt/nut
Second is the bent "slug"
I've heard of this type of thing happening...having something get bent inside the rotor bolt area. I just removed the rotor from my R25/2 with a Cycleworks extractor. Once I had tightened it down, I rapped the end of the extractor bolt a few times, and the rotor just popped off.
Below is a picture courtesy of Joe 'Cuda on the Airheads Beemer Club. This shows the arrangement with the rotor as it sits on the end of the conical end of the crankshaft. It sounds like you have the situation on the right with the slug inside but bent. I really don't know how it can be extracted without ruining the inside threads on the rotor. If there are still threads on the rotor and the slug is inside, why can't you go back to the extractor bolt, put a little tension on the bolt, and try tapping with a hammer. I can't see how the slug can be holding things up.
That said, you might want to call Vech and ask for some tips. You probably only get one shot at this. In the end, the crank might have to come out of the bike and the problem dealt with that way. The last thing you want to do is damage the threads on the nose of the crank.
Kurt in S.A.
'78 R100/7 '69 R69S '52 R25/2